Tulocay Winery is the oldest continuously operating winery in the Coombsville area of Napa (located just north east of the actual town of Napa). Coombsville (named after Nathan Coombs, one of the founders of the city of Napa) is the newest one of Napa’s 16 sub appellations (approval granted in late 2011) – a region that is characterized by cooler growing conditions then further north in the valley and for featuring a wide diversity of micro-climates – allowing farmers to grow a variety of different types of grapes.
All of the Tulocay wines are from small single vineyards including Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, Syrah and Zinfandel (with a focus on grapes grown in Coombsville). The wines are typically 100% varietal. Most of the grapes used in Tulocay’s wines come from long term relationships that Bill has established over the years; Tulocay owns no vineyards. And in addition to the Napa Valley, Tulocay sources grapes from vineyard sites in other select locations in Northern California.
After working on the long since defunct Pacific Coast Stock Exchange in San Francisco, founder Bill Cadman found himself in between jobs at age 29. He picked up a Sunset guide to wine country and started browsing the pages. The “wine country” north of San Francisco caught his eye. Bill came to the Napa Valley without any experience in the wine industry, took a job at Charles Krug Winery and began commuting in a 1955 Ford pickup from Sausalito to St. Helena.
Bill quickly picked up wine related knowledge and spent time working in the winery at Heitz Cellars (the old ghost winery at the end of Taplin Road, not the Heitz tasting room), Clos du Val, (all long time Napa wineries still in existence) and Robert Mondavi Winery where he worked for more then 20 years as a tour guide. He remembers bringing visitors over to personally meet with Mr. Mondavi who would be hanging out at the winery. Mr. Mondavi was always interested in sharing his wealth of knowledge about the valley with visitors. Bill also recalls bringing his elderly mother into the winery for a celebration lunch of his 20 years working at the winery – Mr. Mondavi came over, pinched his mother’s cheeks and commented on how youthful her skin looked.
Soon tiring of the commute he moved to the Napa Valley and purchased his home and winery site in 1972. Bill remembers his Napa County winery application form was merely two sides of one piece of paper. He founded Tulocay in 1975 and was the winemaker during the first few years of building the brand in the 1970’s. He has since had several consulting winemakers. One day, Bill received a call from his daughter Brie indicating she was going to school at nearby Napa Valley College to learn more about oenology (after working other non wine related jobs). This was excellent timing as Bill was getting up in years and was no longer able to do the physical work needed in the winery. In 2012 Brie took over wine-making duties and she has made all subsequent vintages (with plenty of input from Bill). Brie is also is the assistant winemaker at another Napa based winery.
Tulocay as Bill will tell you tongue in cheek, means “fine wines at reasonable prices” but in actuality it is an Indian word.
An experience at the winery is a step back into time to the mid 1970’s when Napa was still relatively unknown on the international stage and all the flash and outside money had not yet entered the Napa Wine industry. This is one of the best values in all of Napa for the quality of wine when compared to the pricing.
A tasting here is very relaxed and weather permitting is outside on a patio shaded by the oaks overlooking the small winery. Bill truly enjoys visiting with people and a tasting with him is a fun, at times humorous and always an educational experience with invaluable historical tidbits from a time when there were far fewer wineries in the Napa Valley.
For a low production winery Tulocay makes large variety of different types of wines. Bill has been working with the historic (and nearby) Haynes Vineyard since his first vintage in 1975. The Haynes Vineyard (not to be confused with another historical vineyard by the name of Hayne Vineyard – owned by Chase Cellars in St. Helena) was first planted around 1966 under the tutelage of Louis M. Martini and André Tchelistcheff. These are certainly among the oldest if not the oldest continuously commercially producing Pinot Noir vines in all of the Napa Valley.
The Tulocay Pinot Noir is not as rich or dense as you might find from some of the Napa Carneros Pinot Noir producers, rather it is more traditionally made – in a Burgundian style. Every year the wine from this varietal tends to be elegant both in aroma and on the palate. Pinot Noir is partly what Tulocay is known for; remarkably after 40 vintages they are still making Pinot Noir from the old vines in the Haynes Vineyard.
Bill makes a lighter styled Cabernet Sauvignon which pairs well with food including the single vineyard Cliff Cabernet Sauvignon (which they produced for several decades). The 2002 Tulocay Cabernet Sauvignon show dark ruby color with a nose containing notes of smokiness and hints of oak. Pleasing fruit shows on the palate – the mouth feel is smooth and the tannins are not gripping. Very balanced.
According to Bill, the Casanova Zinfandel was one of the best wines he made, but the last vintage of this was 2002 and was only available for purchase at the winery. The fruit source for this wine was key as it was from that ‘magical’ red ground on the eastern slopes of the Oakville Appellation (home to numerous premium wineries including Dalla Valle and Oakville Ranch among others).
Tulocay made a Zinfandel from Amador county grown grapes for a number of years. Starting with the 2013 vintage, they source their Zinfandel from a historical vineyard on Dunaweal Lane in Calistoga from old head pruned vines. They keep the alcohol in moderation (not always easy to do with this varietal especially from vines growing in a warm part of the valley). The wine has good acidity and plenty of fruit both aromatically and on the palate. This is a delicious Zinfandel.
Tulocay’s first Chardonnay in 1975 was not from the Haynes Vineyard – rather it was sourced from a Chardonnay vineyard in Rutherford, off of Niebaum Lane (back when Rutherford had not yet been converted to mostly red grape varietals).
The 2009 Tulocay Chardonnay was sourced from the Haynes Vineyard. This wine is golden yellow in the glass – this is not a Chardonnay that goes downhill after a few years. It is well made and drinks well after 5 years of age. In the glass it shows vibrant notes of yellow pineapple, red apple and citrus blossom, lemon and just a very subtle hint of white pepper. It is a complex yet elegant bouquet. On the palate it is silky smooth, balanced with a clean lingering finish that shows some mineralities. This is not an oak-driven wine.
The 2015 Tulocay Napa Valley Chardonnay is visibly golden in the glass – with notes of yellow pineapple, citrus blossom on the bouquet. Somewhat rounded on the palate, the wine shows a pleasing intensity of flavor along with mineralities. Excellent acidity and a clean finish. Drinks very well by itself.
Today, Tulocay produces two Charonnay wines – the Cadman label which does not see any oak during its aging (featuring a photograph of his mother in her youth) and the Tulocay label, which is aged in both new and neutral oak barrels.
One aspect which differentiates Tulocay from almost all Napa wineries is their are typically 3-4 years older than other wineries’ current vintages and at the time of our latest visit, the wines we were tasting were five and six years old – certainly not a bad thing for consumers. Consumers can also take note that these wines are not priced higher despite the additional aging. Even a varietal that is often the highest priced in the valley, Cabernet Sauvignon, is reasonably priced.
Bill’s philosophy about wine is refreshing; it should be enjoyed by family and friends, rather than as a social status to show off to others.
In 1988 Bill received a menu in the mail – it was from the US Federal Government containing a dinner menu dated Thursday April 21, 1988 – his wines had been served at a dinner at the White House – along with wines from Robert Mondavi (certainly a nice feeling to see one’s wine alongside Robert Mondavi, especially considering Bill worked for Mr. Mondavi for 20 years) and wines from Schramsberg.
Rather then drilling a fancy cave on site, Tulocay’s “cave” is a C-Train storage unit, but it does contain a “flying bat” – as Bill says, “to help make the “cave” more authentic”. The winery is small but functional for their limited production wines (around 1,000 cases a year). For more information and to join their wine club, visit: www.tulocay.com
Wine with Tony