Monticelli Brothers Winery is owned and operated by two brothers, Massimo and Mario – both 4th generation winemakers. In Italy small towns have a “local winemaker” which was a role their grandfather filled in a small town in Tuscany. After WWII he and his family including Massimo and Mario’s father immigrated to the USA. Bringing cuttings in a suitcase, their grandfather literally brought his business with him and had the beginnings to start a vineyard in California. For many years he grew grapes in the Central valley for making raisins but kept a number of rows planted to Italian varietals for home wine. As a result both Massimo and Mario have spent their entire lives in and around the wine industry. Their father was winemaker and later an executive for Gallo Winery. Don’t confuse this winery with nearby Monticello Winery (named after Thomas Jefferson’s estate and no relation to the family) – Monticelli Brothers actually made the first few vintages of their wine at Monticello Winery perhaps contributing to some confusion at that time.
All their wines are named after family members and as of press time they produce four different wines. We met with Massimo for our tasting. He is spirited, enthusiastic and extremely passionate about the hands on part of wine making. Once on the fast track to be a doctor, his family roots called out and he changed career paths eventually earning his masters in winemaking from UC Davis. Along with making his own wine, he also consults for a number of select fairly small producers. He often works with great Napa vineyard sources and he uses a soccer analogy in regards to his winemaking, “the goalie is out of the cage and its his job to tap it in.” Nice!
He has done a fantastic job with the 2003 Mario Sangiovese which is made in an Italian style. True to the Italian way of making this wine it is 100% varietal. It has bright fruit, lively acidity and very fruit driven aromas. Red cherry with an assortment of spices is found on the mid palate; the finish is very smooth. One varietal that Massimo loves is Cabernet Sauvignon and he said he would rather drink a mediocre Cabernet Sauvignon than any other varietal. The 2006 Massimo Cabernet Sauvignon (named after himself in regards to his passion for this wine!) is anything but mediocre. It is sourced from several high end Napa vineyards. It is dark and inky and conveys very nice balance both on the bouquet and on the palate. This is a rich mouth watering wine. The lengthy finish is somewhat dusty and almost earthy in nature.
Out of more than 800 Napa commercial wine producers we have visited and tasted with on this project we have run into only a non vintage red wine a handful of times (we are not counting non vintage sweet Port wine). So as you can see, this is very rare to find this type of wine in Napa! This is the wine that both Massimo and Mario would drink while “making” wine in the cellar. They determined (correctly) that since it was something they enjoyed (even while working), why not bottle it commercially. Little did they know how popular of a wine it would become as now it is their best seller.
After tasting it, we can see why. By bottling a modified Solera style non vintage wine you combine the characteristics that aging brings to the wine as well as additional fruit from the younger “juice”. They strive for consistency with this wine always using the same oak program from year to year as well as 50% of the wine left in barrel always carries over to the next year’s vintage. This wine is called Rolando Rosso, named after a great Uncle. It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. We tried the current release; the aromas are floral and hints of violet are intermingled with very ripe fruit. The palate is juicy ready to drink now and the mouth feel is smooth and velvety with great fruit flavors.
Lastly, as a complete change from their normal wines is the rich dessert wine called Lito Vin Santo. The grapes for this wine are harvested late and are laid out on mats to dehydrate. Then they are pressed off and the resulting juice is of course very rich and concentrated in flavor. Fermentation and aging then takes place in sealed oak barrels. After 3-5 years of aging the clear wine is removed from the cloudy lees and other yeast material. The “mother yeast” is always left in the remaining barrels which are then filled with the current years vintage.
Historically this same yeast has been used in their family for this type of wine since the 1950’s! Some interesting varietals are used to make this wine including Muscat Canelli, Malvasia Bianca, followed by Sangiovese, Aleatico and very small amounts of Brachetto, Semillon and Trousseau. The 2003 is a pleasant wine (residual sugar only 2% with a relatively low alcohol content) with a honey profile on the nose followed onto the palate in the flavors. We also found apricot, crème Brule, a toasted nuttiness and a slight baking spice to the finish.
Their focus of distribution is within restaurants – you can find them locally on the wine list at Don Giovanni’s in Napa and the Rutherford Grill. The have select distribution in New York and Florida. www.monticellibros.com