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Madonna Estate

Review by Dave 1 Comment

Madonna Estate is located in the Napa Los Carneros AVA directly next to the often busy Highway 12 (their parking lot is accessible via Old Sonoma Road). The winery is run by one of the oldest wine making families in the Napa Valley – the Bartolucci’s. Andrea “Andy” Bartolucci first came to the Napa Valley in 1913 from a small village along the Adriatic coast, in Italy’s Emilia-Romagna near Rimini. During his early years in California he worked as a brick mason on the original Palace of Fine Arts building in San Francisco for the Panama–Pacific International Exposition held in 1915. After moving to the Napa Valley (St. Helena), he worked in some of the magnesium minesin the northern part of the valley.

In 1922 Andrea purchased 24-acres in Oakville (home to what is now the Napa Wine Company). This was not an easy time to get in to the wine business as it was in the early years of prohibition. They persevered and made sacramental wine; in addition they loaded grapes on rail cars bringing them to the San Francisco Bay area where they were sold to home winemakers – primarily to the Italian community that was living in North Beach (San Francisco). Making up to 200 gallons of home wine per household during Prohibition was legal. After Prohibition ended they immediately began making wine (1933 would have been their first commercial release). Eventually Andrea’s son, Louis took control of the winery and developed the Mont St. John label (appropriately named because of their geographic location in Oakville across from Mont St. John) and by 1947 Mont St. John Cellars was listed as the 12th largest California winery.

Louis’ son Andrea “Buck” Bartolucci became assistant winemaker to his father in 1967. Now in his 70’s, and still the winemaker for Madonna Estate, he celebrated his 50th harvest of making wine in the Napa Valley in 2017. By 1970 the Bartolucci’s sold their original property in Oakville and made a rather interesting decision at the time to locate their vineyard efforts from the proven grounds up valley to what was mostly pasture land in Carneros at the time. Louis and Buck purchased 160 acres in Carneros off of Duhig Road. This land was not yet planted; today approximately 140 acres of this property are planted to a diversity of varietals.

This vineyard has a birds eye view of the San Pablo Bay and is arguably one of the cooler sites in Carneros due to its proximity to the water. The vineyard is located across from what is now Liana Estates Winery – on the eastern side of Duhig Road. Often in the summer, fog blankets this part of Napa in the mornings – clearing up by mid day. On a clear day one can see into San Francisco from the vineyard.

Two varietals that Carneros is known for are Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and their plantings of these form a large part of the vineyard. However they also grow a number of other varietals – some not commonly found in the Napa Valley such as Gewürztraminer, Muscat Canelli, Pinot Grigio and the very obscure (for Napa Valley), Dolcetto. And remarkably they also grow Cabernet Sauvignon – produced in a style that is decidedly different then the up valley wines made from this same varietal. Their diversity in the vineyard allows them to make a diversity of wines. This vineyard supplies nearly all the grapes for their wines (the exception being Cabernet Sauvignon from St. Helena and a Barbera from the Sierra Nevada foothills (near the town of Lincoln – northeast of Sacramento).

The Bartolucci’s have farmed organically since their early days in Napa (no herbicides and no pesticides). They continue to do so and are certified CCOF. Their official CCOF organic certification dates from 1991 making them among the oldest CCOF certified vineyards in the Napa area. Other then watering young vines when becoming established, all their vineyards are dry farmed. And unlike the majority of the vineyards in the Napa Valley that are farmed by vineyard management companies, their vines are all farmed in house (Buck oversees the management of the vineyard).

After several years of establishing their new vineyard they began construction on the winery in 1977 for their Mont St. John wines (today Madonna Estate) on 4.5 acres. Their first Pinot Noir vintage from this vineyard was from 1979. The tasting room opened in 1981. A tiny vineyard surrounds part of the winery – planted to Muscat Canelli for many years it was replanted to Dolcetto in Spring 2018. Notice the arches at the winery – this was in tribute to Buck’s grandfather Andrea who always enjoyed seeing arches in buildings. And in an echo of history, visitors who drive by Napa Wine Co in Oakville will still see arches in the design of their tasting room.

Today their current production is around 10,000 cases – with nearly all sold direct to visitors coming to the winery and their wine clubs. For the price to quality ratio, Madonna Estate produces some of Napa’s better value wines. They have minimal distribution with just a small amount of their Chardonnay going to the Los Angeles market.

The 2015 Estate Chardonnay shows bright aromatics leading to a clean palate that is well balanced between weight and acidity. Barrel fermented. Shows notes of pear, red apple, mandarin and other mineralities. A noticeable roundness and softness – almost a little briny in texture. Drinks very well by itself – it is easy to keep drinking this wine!

Their 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir named “Due Ragazze” or in English, “two girls” is named after the winemakers’ daughters. This is an elegant and restrained Pinot Noir – in other words it is well balanced and not overly fruit or alcohol driven.

Dolcetto is commonly grown in the Piedemont region of Italy – and only a handful of Napa producers make wine from this varietal. The size of the grapes are fairly large (compared to say a grape of Cabernet Sauvignon) and the vines tend to produce a lot of fruit – they thin back a significant amount of fruit throughout the growing season. Meaning in Italian, ‘little sweet one’ it is anything but as the wine they produce has no residual sugar. The 2014 Estate Dolcetto shows bright aromatics with aromas of red cherry. Light on the body but with richness of flavor (including cranberry and plum) the wine finishes clean. The tannins are evident but are not grippy – overall very well balanced and very approachable young.

Their Cabernet Sauvignon is probably grown in one of the more cooler sites in the valley for this varietal. The 2012 vintage shows notes of olive and jalapeno on the bouquet – it is not green as one might expect of a cooler site but rather has some interesting nuances on the bouquet that you don’t always find in higher alcohol and ‘riper’ wines of this varietal. Very approachable the wine is soft on the entry with notes of cranberry, rhubarb and hints of white pepper on the finish. Shows fine grained tannins – this is a good food wine with good acidity plus flavor.

The first Cabernet Sauvignon we tried during our early visits to the winery was a 2002 vintage. From our notes, we show this wine was only 13.1% – still, the 2012 vintage is under 14%, well below most of the wines from this varietal grown up valley.

The 2012 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon shows a sweetness on the bouquet including dessert spices and brown sugar, a hint of chocolate and blueberry. Pleasing mouth feel showing flavors of mostly red fruit including red cherry and raspberry. Long finish but not overpowering from the tannins. Rather they are more fine grained complemented with a hint of vanilla from the oak.

Madonna Estate has also developed a following for their dessert wines. At the time of our most recent update to this review they produce three wines in this style including a Pinot Noir they call Rosetto, a Gewürztraminer and a Muscat Canelli. The 2016 Estate Gewürztraminer will pair well with spicy foods and in our mind, shellfish. Slightly sweet on the bouquet it shows aromas of pear and citrus. Off dry on the palate it is not annoyingly sweet; light and fairly easy to drink it shows notes of pear and red apple. Very clean finish.

Many wine making families have trouble passing on the business to younger generations – fortunately the Bartolucci’s have been able to avoid some of the common generational pitfalls. Buck’s two daughters Brette and Taylor are actively involved in the operations helping run the wine clubs. Four alcoves are located in the Reserve Room, each of which contains photos from the 4 generations who have run Madonna since its inception. And with Brette and Taylor’s children, the 5th generation is waiting in the wings.

The winery is often visited by tour groups in vans or buses so the tasting room can fill up quickly and then empty just as fast. It all depends on your timing with the buses as to how crowded your visit will be. A small gift shop surrounds the exterior of the tasting room and contains a selection of wine related gifts and souvenirs. If the primary tasting room is busy a reserve room on site offers a more private tasting experience (with tables).

Picnic tables are available for winery customers outside in a small grassy area. For more information and to join one of their wine clubs, visit: www.madonnaestate.com



Wine with Tony

Filed Under: Reviews

Comments

  1. Melinda pound says

    September 19, 2015 at 6:07 pm

    I visited your winery in May and signed up for your wine club. I have only received 2 months of wine. Is there a problem I’m not aware of?
    Thank you

    Reply

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Quick Info

Madonna Estate
5400 Old Sonoma Road, Napa

www.madonnaestate.com

Phone: 255-8864

Hours: 10-5pm

Open to Public: Yes

Appointments: No

Regular Tours: No

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