Cakebread Cellars, one of Napa’s more well known and larger family run and operated wineries, is located slightly north of Robert Mondavi Winery on the east side of Highway 29. The driveway is somewhat hidden by trees and there is no obvious sign on the actual highway. During busy times of the year (usually summer and fall weekends) a parking attendant will often be stationed at the entrance to the parking lot to verify that guests have appointments as well as directing visitors where to park. Visitors must check in at the reception before joining any tours or tastings.
Founders, Jack and Dolores Cakebread are from Oakland where they owned a car repair business called Cakebread’s Garage that Jack’s father began in 1925 (the building is still there, not far from Clinton Square and is now home to In & Out Auto Glass). Jack was also a photographer and studied under the famed outdoor photographer Ansel Adams for about 9 years. His introduction to Ansel Adams was through a gift certificate to one of his classes that his wife Dolores gave him as a Christmas present. Jack and Dolores founded Cakebread in 1973 with a release of merely 157 cases of Chardonnay sourced from vineyards owned by Trefethen Winery and made this first vintage at Trefethen. Their first ever vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon was from 1974. In 1975 with not enough space at their new winery to handle their increased production, they processed their Cabernet Sauvignon from this vintage up at tiny Keenan Winery (on Spring Mountain, above St. Helena).
With their initial tiny production, Jack thought if he wasn’t able to sell the wine he could always drink it. Fortunately the owner at the time of Groezinger’s wine shop in Yountville (still there by the way, but now called Wine Country Connection), Phillip Faight purchased most of their inaugural vintage 1973 Chardonnay. Phillip was able to sell this wine to sophisticated wine drinkers, mostly from the San Francisco Bay area. As a result, word quickly spread about the quality of the 1973 Chardonnay and production soon increased rather rapidly.
Today their sons, Bruce (working at Cakebread since 1978, for more then 20 years as winemaker) and his brother Dennis (working at Cakebread full-time since 1987) oversee the overall winery operations. Both Bruce and Dennis worked at the winery in their early years. Dennis is also the founder of Mullan Road Cellars, based in Walla Walla, Washington – a brand that sources from several vineyards in that part of the state.
Wondering why Ansel Adams never photographed the Napa Valley? Ansel was awarded a contract to photograph the valley for The Treasury of American Wines book, but he gave the contract to Jack Cakebread instead. In an interesting twist of fate, Turnbull Cellars, located next door to Cakebread holds the largest private collection of Ansel Adam’s works in the valley.
During a photo shoot for this book in 1972, Jack stopped to visit old friends Jack and Helen Sturdivant who owned the Sturdivant cattle ranch (site of the current Cakebread Cellars). The Cakebreads told the Sturdivants to call if they ever wanted to sell – merely hours after arriving back home in Oakland Jack & Dolores received a call from their friends who after thinking about Cakebread’s offer decided they were in fact interested in selling their property. The rest is history – short on funds, Jack and Dolores offered to put a down payment on the property with the advance that Jack had received from the book he was working on. The offer was accepted with the caveat that the Sturdivants could live on site as long as they wanted. Jack and Dolores commuted from Oakland to Napa for many years, sold Cakebread’s Garage in 1990 and moved to the Napa Valley full time in the early 1990s.
We recommend the 90 minute in depth tour which provides an intimate look at the wineries’ inner operations and ends with a sit down tasting. This educational tour provides a broad overview of various wine topics and would be especially beneficial for someone new to wine tasting. These tours and other events are among the best values for the price in the valley.
Cakebread often holds food and wine pairing events, sensory seminars, as well as other educational events. Regular tastings are offered every 15 minutes daily – any visit to Cakebread requires an advance appointment.
During our most recent visit we had the chance to see the winery really in action – this is during harvest which is always the best time to a take a tour of a winery. Cakebread operates two completely separate wine making facilities; one for white wine and one for red wine. During harvest we saw employees zipping back and forth between the two on electric scooters and bicycles. Your tour will visit the white wine production facility only. Tour stops include their large and modern barrel storage facility, visits to the back of the winery where the wine presses are located and a stop in the vineyard.
One of the tour highlights is of course tasting the wine – and you do so in a number of spaces on the property including on the second level of their hospitality center. The ceiling above the first floor is literally made from used corks – the most corks you will see in one place at any Napa winery. One of their employees told us he made a rough count and then calculated around 45,000 corks are here. The views from the 2nd level balcony are excellent – one looks east over a sea of vineyards. A tour also includes a view of the original winery where Jack Cakebread made his first vintage in 1973.
A rather sizable garden (about 1 acre of land) originally founded by Dolores Cakebread is located in the back of the winery; today it is a source for fresh vegetables and herbs used in their culinary program along with a number of edible flowers. Small paths bisect rows of plantings – visitors can wander through at their leisure.
Most Napa wineries don’t have a full time chef and there are a handful that have just one, Cakebread employs several chefs. With their fresh produce straight from the garden, trained chefs on site and excellent wine, Cakebread is the epitome of the Napa Valley lifestyle.
The estate property which surrounds the winery has grown over the years as neighbors sold off bits and pieces to Cakebread. Today the home vineyard is 50 acres of vines on 68 total acres – planted to several varieties including Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Over the decades, Cakebread has acquired approximately 1,600 acres with the majority located in the Napa Valley but also several vineyards to the north in Mendocino County. Nearly 600 acres are planted to vines spread out over 14 different vineyard sites (12 in the Napa Valley and 2 in Anderson Valley).
Perhaps the crowning hillside jewel of their vineyard collection is the Dancing Bear Vineyard high on the slopes of Howell Mountain offering some of the *most spectacular* views of nearly all of the entire Napa Valley spread out far below. This vineyard was their first Napa Valley acquisition in 1998 outside of their winery Oakville and Rutherford ‘home vineyards’.
Seventy percent of Cakebread’s production is white varieties (mainly Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc) with the majority of their red production being Cabernet Sauvignon. Cakebread produces premium wines (at a fairly sizable production for Napa Valley standards); the wines are found in many high-end restaurants nationwide and it is through this distribution that people often discover their wines.
The Cakebread Chardonnay is very well known especially among the restaurant industry as that is a key sales channel for this wine. They produce several Chardonnays; during an early visit to the winery, we tried the 2007 Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Chardonnay. It offers pleasant aromas including tangerine, just a hint of toasted oak and crème Brule with good citrus notes on the palate. The flavors are appealing anchored by a slightly creamy mouth feel.
The Cakebread Chardonnays undergo sur lee barrel aging (the lees or sediment at the bottom of the barrels are hand stirred). Their Chardonnays are also mostly barrel fermented – rather than fermented in tank; their reserve Chardonnay sees more aging than their larger distributed primary Chardonnay. In addition, the Reserve vintage is sourced from two premium sites in the Napa Valley – Cakebread’s own vineyard and also the well-known Hudson Vineyard. The 2005 Cakebread Cellars Reserve wine is dark yellow – it is big for a Chardonnay with a pleasing rounded rich mouth feel and lingering notes of toasted oak. It undergoes some malolactic fermentation and is somewhat creamy and slightly buttery.
Sauvignon Blanc was one of the first varieties the Cakebread’s planted in part because of Dolores’s love of white wines and at the urging of their neighbor Robert Mondavi who offered to purchase fruit if they planted this variety (which he did). The 2018 Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc was sourced from 4 vineyards ranging from the cooler Carneros in the south to warmer Calistoga in the north. Pale straw yellow in the glass, immediately offers bright aromatics with citrus blossom and a lemon and lime zest. Clean and balanced across the plate – shows a flint-like minerality along with flavors of gooseberry and green apple. A lively showing but not overtly green or grassy.
The proprietary Rubáiyat is a wine one will not find at any other Napa wineries. This blend is predominately Pinot Noir with often select other varietals rounding out the blend including Zinfandel, Syrah or Grenache. The 2006 Cakebread Cellars Rubáiyatis a blend of Pinot Noir, Zinfandel a splash of Syrah. The bouquet on this wine is decidedly spicy, more representative of a Zinfandel whereas on the palate it tastes more like a Pinot Noir with flavors of strawberry, raspberry and red cherry. This is a very fruit forward wine.
The 2005 Cakebread Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon is an excellent food wine – its well balanced between acidity, structure, and flavor. It is Bordeaux style in nature – the nose is elegant and somewhat floral with nice notes of blackberry which also follow through onto the palate. The mouth feel is smooth and rounded with firm yet soft tannins.
One of the more unique varieties growing in the Napa Valley is Verdelho – Cakebread Cellars grows about .10 of an acre on site – with a few rows bordering Highway 29 on their estate just slightly south of the winery entrance. 2018 was their first vintage – they elected to blend this with with Viognier (and just a tiny kiss of Sauvignon Blanc). The only other producer we know of in the Napa Valley who grows and produces wine from this variety is Coquerell Vineyards.
The Photo Contest
Cakebread has held an annual photo contest since 1992; this was created after customers began sending in photos of themselves enjoying Cakebread wine in various locations – back then entries were printed, today they are submitted in digital format. Entries need to include a photograph showing you wearing a Cakebread Cellars shirt or there needs to be a bottle of Cakebread Cellars wine in your photograph. Each picture needs to be accompanied by a 25 word description or less. Prior winning photographs hang on the wall next to their reserve room.
NOTE: In 2018 construction began on a major expansion of their hospitality center; the tasting room has been moved to the ‘back’ of the property (the primary parking is now in the back of the property as well).
The new hospitality center will be under construction until at least mid 2019 with an estimated completion date of sometime in September of that year. Once completed there will be 9 individual rooms to host guests for private tastings.
We will keep a close eye on the progress of this and will revisit and provide a *major* and extensive update to this review once it is fully open.
In the meantime, visitors to the property must follow the driveway all the way around the back – where there is plenty of parking next to the entrance to the current tasting room (until the construction is completed).
For more information, to schedule an appointment or to to join one of their wine clubs (joining gives one access to numerous events throughout the year as part of The Good life Series – hosted mostly at the winery and sometimes in other locations), visit: www.cakebread.com
Mullan Road Cellars
In the early 1990s, the Cakebread’s first began to explore the possibility of expanding their operations to a wine region outside of the Napa Valley. Their first non Napa Valley vineyard purchase was in Anderson Valley to the north in Mendocino County. By 2005 they had reached capacity at Cakebread Cellars but then the recession hit around 2008 and it wasn’t until 2010 that Dennis Cakebread led a serious search for creating a wine outside of the Napa Valley.
Through friends his search eventually led him to Washington and finally to Walla Walla (about a 4-4.5 hour drive southeast of Seattle). He recalls the excitement at creating a new brand at the time, some 35+ years after Cakebread Cellars was founded. Part of his enthusiasm was from venturing into a completely new (to him) wine growing region.
Through several well-established winery and winemaking connections Dennis was introduced to select vineyards; Mullan Road Cellars has been sourcing from the Seven Hills Vineyard (one of the first commercial vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley AVA having initially been planted in 1980) and two vineyards in the Royal Slope agricultural region (near Royal City), Lawrence Vineyards and Stillwater Creek Vineyards. This part of Washington is relatively young when it comes to vineyard sites – it is also desert-like with only 6-8 inches of precipitation falling annually. And unlike the Napa Valley, vineyard sites are often planted next to a variety of other crops including cherries and apples.
Because this is such a dry part of the state, agriculture did not become viable until well after the Grand Coulee Dam opened in 1942. The dam led way to a vast network of irrigation channels along various parts of the Columbia basin; agriculture began here in the late 1950s and early 1960s. Soils in the area can be traced to the Missoula Floods – a series of cataclysmic events in which ice dams broke at intervals causing great floods to rage down the Columbia River and far down the Willamette Valley (estimated to have happened 25 times between 13,000 and 15,000 years ago).
The first vintage of Mullan Road Cellars was from 2012 – founding winemaker Aryn Morell grew up in Washington state but spent time making wine in the Napa Valley including at Josph Phelps, Quintessa, Chimney Rock and at Chappellet Winery. Starting in 2017 the wine became more then 75% varietal Cabernet Sauvignon – and in 2019 they began to focus their vineyard sources on the Royal Slope. Total production of the single wine each year varies – but is often between 3,500 and 6,000 cases (and growing).
The 2015 Mullan Road Cellars Red Wine Blend offers bright fruit on the bouquet including red cherry, raspberry, hints of red licorice and Crème de cassis. As the wine opens further a sweetness of both fruit and spice begins to show including aromas of mocha. The texture certainly stands out on the palate – plush on the entry but it quickly develops additional layers – the tannins are earthy, pronounced and linger noticeably for quite some time along with flavors of dark cherry, blackberry and boysenberry.
The 2016 Mullan Road Cellars Red Wine Blend is noticeably dark in the glass. It offers a dramatically different bouquet then the 2015 vintage. Savory in its aromatic presentation it reveals aromas of tobacco paper, cigar smoke, dark spices and cedar. Meaty at times features dark fruit notes including spicy plum. Great acidity – with a lively finish that dances across the palate – a brightness of fruit if you will lingering with both flavors of red cherry, cranberry and a tiny hint of mint. Superbly balanced – there are no harsh edges including the finish which is anchored by supple and very polished tannins. A pleasure to drink in its youth but also certainly very cellar-worthy.
The wines we tried from various Washington producers with connections to the Napa Valley including Mullan Road Cellars are wines with a strong sense of place, balance and perhaps a bit more restraint at times compared to some of the more opulent Cabernet Sauvignon wines coming from the Napa Valley.
The wine was named after Lieutenant John Mullan, (1830-1909) a lawyer, soldier and road builder. Most famous, he commanded some 200 people including U.S. Army troops to build a 600 mile long wagon road crossing the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Northwest – connecting Fort Benton along the banks of the Missouri River in Montana to Fort Walla Walla in Walla Walla. Today the Mullan Road is followed somewhat by Interstate 15 and Interstate 90. A historic site is located in Walla Walla on the corner of 13th and Abadie – sponsored in part by Mullan Road Cellars. A little walkway passes by signs providing historical insights into John Mullan, Walla Walla and the Mullan Road.
The winery does not maintain a tasting room in either Walla Walla or the Napa Valley but visitors to Walla Walla can request a tasting at the wine warehouse where they produce the wines. Dennis also participates in select winemaker dinners and special events showcasing several vintages of Mullan Road Cellars including an event in Denver that combines fly fishing with wines from Mullan Road Cellars. For more information and to order wine, visit: www.mullanroadcellars.com
Cakebread’s Garage Building, Oakland
MULLAN ROAD CELLARS
Fort Walla Walla Museum/Park
Mullan Road Historical Site
Seven Hills Vineyard
Stillwater Creek Vineyard