Hesperian Wines

Hesperian Wines, owned by winemaker Philippe Langner focuses primarily on single vineyard, single variety, small lot wines (Cabernet Sauvignon). From an international point of view, Philippe is one of the Napa Valley’s most international vintners having lived on 5 continents over the years. His perspective of the globe is great; he had an envious childhood – born in El Salvador, he lived in Bangladesh and Columbia, but spent most of his formative years in Africa in what is now the Democratic Republic of Congo. Eventually he moved to Switzerland for school. Later, he studied at UC Davis and graduated with a double Masters in Agronomy and Agricultural Economics. After school he wanted to help NGO’s abroad, focusing on third world agricultural development. He moved to France and began searching for overseas employment while working for a bank in Paris.

At this time his sister Ariana recommended he try working in the wine industry at Château Clarke in the Listrac-Médoc AOC – named after Tobie Clarke who originally purchased this land in 1818. The chateau has been owned by a part of the Rothschild banking family since 1973. And his sister Ariane was married to Benjamin Rothschild (died in 2021).

Bordeaux was about as far from the middle of Africa as one could get but Philippe quickly learned all aspects of the industry from working in the vineyards to the actual wine making. Up until this time he had no prior experience in the wine industry. He worked at Château Clarke for 5 years and learned from some of the best winemakers in the industry including master blender Michel Rolland.

Coming to the Napa Valley to tour wine country on vacation, his friend recommended he visit Sullivan Rutherford Estate. Assuming he was going to the winery to taste the wine like any other wine loving tourist with an appointment, he soon found himself being grilled with questions by one of their winemaking team. After 15 minutes he was offered a job (this was just before the start of harvest), but he was actually heading back to France in 3 days. After a scramble for visa paperwork, he stayed on to work the harvest and ultimately was promoted to viticulturist and winemaker and worked at Sullivan Rutherford Estate for 8 years.

Today Philippe focuses his energy on the Hesperian wines and a second label called Anatomy (about 3,000 cases per year of a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon). He chose the name Anatomy in reference to a number of wine descriptors referencing the anatomy of a body (IE, legs, backbone, nose, among others). He also continues to consult for several small labels.

Château Clarke

Philippe owns a picturesque forty-acre property piece of property on Atlas Peak he calls Kitoko (KEE toe ko), a word in the Bantu language used in parts of central Africa including the Democratic Republic of Congo – meaning “beautiful.” His first purchase was 20 acres and then in 2016 he added a neighboring 20-acre parcel. While minutes from the valley floor this part of the Napa Valley feels very isolated. The landscape across parts of Atlas Peak could almost be called a “rock-pile” and it’s no different at this vineyard site. During a visit after a torrential rain in which local creeks had turned into waterfalls, we were expecting to get muddy; this was not the case after walking around the vineyard for 30 minutes.

Due to the rocky and stressful nature of growing grapes here, yields are small – often slightly less then 2 tons per acre. In 2015, a particular challenging year on the site due to shatter Philippe harvested well under 1 ton per acre. Berry sizes are small with a high skin to juice ratio. Getting color out of the wines is never a problem – and Philippe has to be careful not to over extract the wines in the cellar. 14.2 acres of vines are planted entirely to Cabernet Sauvignon and include clones 7, 337 and 341. The original vines were planted in 2000 and in 2003. And while this is Hesperian’s flagship vineyard, Hesperian leases grapes and manages the vines from two other small vineyard sites: the 4-acre Eagles Nest vineyard in the southern part of the Napa Valley and the 2-acre Upstream vineyard in Coombsville.

The vineyard is generally above the frost line. On a clear day, views from parts of the vineyard are spectacular – even of San Francisco far in the distance.

As Philippe told us, “Wine is a game of patience” – he crafts his wines for the long run, thinking 10 and 20 years out. Some of his wines are big and muscular upon release, built to age and develop over time – wines one would lay down for a number of years. He further ages the wines up to two years in bottle before their release so current release wines are typically about 5 years post vintage date. With that said, the Hesperian wines are not big in alcohol but rather showcase structure and depth. They are also food friendly wines, best appreciated and enjoyed with a meal. At the core of Hesperian’s wines are Philippe’s respect for terroir and varietal characteristics.

Philippe focuses on 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Referring to single varietal wines, he says, “the wine making really needs to take place in the vineyard as you have no chances to fill in the ‘holes’ later by blending in other varieties”.

2017 Atlas Peak Fire
In October 2017 a major fire tore through Atlas Peak – the stories of survival that we have heard firsthand from speaking with a number of vintners directly effected in the path of this particular fire are remarkable. Unfortunately, Philippe’s home, miscellaneous equipment, storage buildings and approximately 500 vines were destroyed.

Many residents escaped with only the clothes on their back and their vehicle – some were caught fleeing the fire down by the nearby Bubbling Well Pet Memorial Park unable to exit Atlas Peak Road due to a tree that had fallen and completely blocked the road. With flames surrounding combined with horrific winds and smoke, we can only imagine the nightmare that was ensuing – fortunately the tree was finally cut, letting the lineup of cars drive through the flames and thick smoke to safety at ‘the bottom of the hill’ near Silverado Trail.

Two prominent pieces of art remarkably survived from the fire – a giant wooden table and a tall hand carved wooden statue, both from Indonesia. And Philippe rebuilt his home – this time, the new house was constructed with a core of metal and exterior landscaping sprinklers.

These are wines that speak to a sense of place and purpose. A winemaker in the truest sense, Philippe lives every aspect of his chosen career – he lives on site, he carefully oversees the management of the vines, and he crafts the wines himself. The depth of wisdom he has accumulated from years of international perspective is an integral part of his persona and operations.

Select Wines
Hesperian
The first vintage of Hesperian was from 2004 (his earlier vintages were crafted while he was still working at Sullivan Vineyards). In 2016 Philippe began what he calls the ‘ripeness trials’ – harvesting over a period of about a month and fermenting various picks separately from one another. Pawa means ‘one’ in Wappo Indian language – referencing how numerous components from the land come together to create a single wine.

The 2016 Hesperian Cabernet Sauvignon Pawa is a balanced and high-toned expression of Napa Valley, crafted as a harmonious blend of fruit from two distinct regions. Sourced from the rocky, high-elevation Kitoko Vineyard on Atlas Peak and the cooler Eagles Nest Vineyard in the Oak Knoll District, the wine offers a bouquet defined by hints of cedar, black olive, and warm wood spices. While it possesses a moderate grip of tannins on the finish, they are finely textured rather than coarse, providing a sturdy yet polished framework for the wine’s vibrant core. The 2016 vintage shines through with a noticeable freshness and bright acidity—a critical component that lifts the flavors of red cherry and red licorice, ensuring the wine feels lively rather than heavy on the palate. By utilizing fruit from “middle ripe” picks, Langner has captured a version of Cabernet Sauvignon that prioritizes elegance and aromatic lift over sheer ripeness.

The 2016 Hesperian Cabernet Sauvignon Witha (means west in Wappo Indian language) is composed of 50% fruit from the Kitoko Vineyard and 50% fruit from the Upstream Vineyard in Coombsville. This wine offers darker aromatics including blackberry complemented by some cedar and toasted oak. As the wine breathes reveals a hint of mocha. Philippe calls this wine “more old style, old Bordeaux”. Mouthwatering finish with a brightness of red fruits including red cherry and currant. A slight dusty note lingers with rounded and finer grained tannins. Very approachable in its youth. This wine was made from early picks from both the Kitoko Vineyard and the Upstream Vineyard in Coombsville.

The 2016 Hesperian Cabernet Sauvignon Kitoko Vineyard is dark ruby in color – the fruit aromatics dominate with ripe blackberry and blueberry. This is a very pretty and more fruit-forward bouquet. The texture is an immediately appealing characteristic of this wine with rounded, slightly chalky and fine-grained tannins. Some darker spices show on the finish (think plum skin) along with a hint of mocha. There are no rough edges with this wine – its already nicely balanced. And stylistically a noticeable contrast from the 2017 vintage. This wine was crafted from the best fruit of the late harvests.

The vintage variation between the 2016 Hesperian wines and the 2017 vintage is easily noticed. 2016 was a cooler vintage and produced Hesperian wines more approachable in their youth while the 2017 wines show as well extracted, deeply colored and robust in texture and richness of flavor. And 2017 was marked by the Atlas Peak Fire; Philippe was able to pick before the fire but then had to wait several weeks after, picking in late October.

The 2017 Hesperian Cabernet Sauvignon Pawa presents a deep, dark ruby color in the glass, immediately suggesting the concentration and richness within. The bouquet is highly expressive and layered, opening with intriguing notes of mocha and freshly roasted espresso that meld seamlessly with subtle hints of old cedar box and a core of ripe black cherry. This particular vintage offers a noticeably riper expression than the previous 2016 Pawa, a characteristic that stems from the grapes being allowed to hang longer on the vine, reaching a more opulent level of maturity. On the palate, the wine is framed by a vibrant, bright acidity that provides a lively counterpoint to the deep fruit profile. While the tannins are well-structured and provide a long-lasting presence, they exhibit a slight astringency typical of drier, mountain-influenced fruit. These tannins are not coarse or rustic in their feel; rather, they are finely etched and noticeable, lending the wine a serious architecture that promises excellent aging potential.

The 2017 Hesperian Cabernet Sauvignon sports vibrant and layered aromas of red cherry, tart currant, and deep blackberry. This abundance of berry fruit is framed by an herbal note that appears on both the bouquet and the palate, creating a very nice aromatic balance between the primary fruit and the subtle, well-measured oak influence. On the palate, the wine reveals a rich and expansive texture, leading into a finish marked by hints of dried tobacco leaf and lingering herbal nuances. The experience is juicy and remarkably long-lasting, anchored by a structure of rich and plentiful tannins that suggest a serious capacity for aging. In terms of pairing, how about a slow-roasted leg of lamb encrusted with rosemary and garlic.

The 2017 Hesperian Cabernet Sauvignon Kitoko Vineyard is a big wine in all aspects, reflecting the power and intensity of its high-elevation Atlas Peak terroir. It appears a deep, dark ruby in the glass, releasing generous aromatics of ripe blackberry, boysenberry, and black plum. These dark fruit layers are complexly interwoven with decadent “dessert spices” like mocha, tiramisu, and shaved dark chocolate, along with a distinct hint of cigar box and crushed stones. On the palate, the wine is incredibly rich and dense, carrying its weight with a persistent grip of substantial, tightly woven tannins that remain long-lasting. This is a wine with immense “stuffing” and concentration, clearly built for the long haul; it is arguably the most age-worthy of the Hesperian lineup, possessing the structure to evolve gracefully in the cellar for two decades or more.

The 2007 Hesperian Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon is a powerful expression of one of Napa Valley’s most hallowed sub-appellations, sourced from the coveted “bench land” on the western edge of the valley floor. The nose is classically Rutherford, leaning into a somewhat earthy and savory profile that hints at the legendary “Rutherford Dust” with its subtle cocoa powder and forest floor nuances. On the mid-palate, the wine is impeccably balanced, featuring deep dark fruit flavors of black cherry, currant, and plum. This vintage possesses significant power and intensity, yet it is lifted by a vibrant line of acidity that keeps the concentrated fruit in check. Given that the fruit was “big enough” and sufficiently structured to handle an ambitious aging program, Philippe utilized 100% new French oak, which has integrated over time to provide a polished texture and a subtle framing of vanilla and toasted spice.

The 2007 Hesperian Coombsville Cabernet Sauvignon is a striking example of why Coombsville is increasingly recognized as a “sweet spot” for Napa Valley Cabernet. It opens with a deep, dark, and highly inviting nose that is led by an abundance of black fruit, specifically concentrated black cherry and blackberry liqueur. These primary fruit notes are accompanied by subtle undertones of loamy earth and a hint of dried herbs, which are hallmarks of the cooler, volcanic terroir found in the southeastern corner of the valley. Despite a moderate alcohol level of 13.9%, which reflects Philippe Langner’s lean toward a more European sensibility, the wine possesses a remarkably weighty and substantial structure. This density is derived not from heat, but from a foundation of fine-grained, persistent tannins and a beautiful range of layered flavors that unfold slowly across the palate.

The 2007 Hesperian Muscatine Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is an expansive and powerful wine, sourced from the unique terroir of lower Soda Canyon near the base of Atlas Peak. The bouquet is immediately engaging, characterized by a pleasant and distinctive dustiness that is beautifully layered with refined notes of cocoa powder, dried sage, and crushed stones. While the entry onto the palate is surprisingly soft and approachable, the wine quickly reveals its true mountain pedigree, building in complexity and density. Because this wine was barrel fermented—a labor-intensive process where the juice and skins are fermented directly in oak—it possesses an integrated and silky mouthfeel that a standard tank fermentation cannot replicate. This technique amplifies the rich, deep flavors of black cherry, cassis, and ripe blackberry, while the finish is elegantly framed by subtle hints of cedar and toasted spice. With its significant “stuffing” and structural integrity, this 2007 vintage is a concentrated expression of the site that continues to show remarkable depth.

Anatomy
Philippe also produces a second label called Anatomy – with a much higher production, usually around 6,000 to 7,000 cases per year. Philippe initially tried to get approval for the name, Antidote but the TTB denied this, perhaps thinking it too closely tied into an association with medicine. The first vintage of Anatomy was in 2006.

The 2021 Anatomy No1 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley is deep ruby and nearly opaque; highly generous in terms of its ripe and sweet fruited bouquet, this wine smells like fresh blackberry, boysenberry jam, Santa Rosa plums and dark cherry. Its no big reveal, but the fruit is clearly the star of the show here with the oak providing a light and gentle aromatic kiss. Its non-fruited scents are of dark olive, old cedar box, sweet pipe tobacco and roasted coffee beans. On the palate there are flavors of red plum, boysenberry, dark raspberry, blackberry and Persian mulberry. Its texture is plush and soft with fully rounded and gentle tannins seamlessly integrated into the finish. And there are lasting notes of tobacco, smoked cedar and dried sage. This wine features a balanced acidity. Like all the Anatomy releases, this bottling is highly approachable and comfortable to drink in its youth. Not necessarily a long term cellar play, but meant to enjoy in its youth at a intriguing price to quality ratio.

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The name Hesperian is tied into Greek mythology; the Garden of the Hesperides was located in the west, on the Iberian Peninsula (Spain & Portugal). Hesperian means “of the west” or relating to the west in Greek. Philippe chose this name for a variety of reasons – because of Napa’s location in the western-most part of the mainland USA and Greek and Latin are the roots of the English language. He chose a name that is reflective of location, rather than his own name as he wanted to convey that wine making is about the terroir.

Total production of the Hesperian wines is about 1,000 cases per year with select distribution in New York, Louisiana, Mississippi, Texas and California. Locally you can find the wine at Backroom Wines and Browns Valley Market in the city of Napa and V Wine Cellars in Yountville. Hesperian Wines participates in several consumer tastings including the Taste of Atlas Peak held every year in September at various south valley locations.

Philippe has been permitted to build an entirely underground winery (14,000 square feet) into one of the hills on his property. We will keep an eye on the progress of this and will update this review accordingly once the cave is completed. At that time, tastings will be available for serious wine enthusiasts on the property – by appointment only. For more information or to purchase wine, visit: www.hesperianwines.com