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Kenzo Estate

Review by Dave Leave a Comment

Quick Info
Kenzo Estate
3200 Monticello Road, Napa
Phone: 254-7572

http://www.kenzoestate.com

Hours: Call

Open to Public: No

Appointments: Yes

Regular Tours: No

Kenzo-Estate-Napa-Valley (1) Kenzo Estate was founded by Mr. Kenzo Tsujimoto and his wife Natsuko. Kenzo is a long-time entrepreneur, born in Kashihara, Nara prefecture, Japan (about a 45–60-minute drive outside of Osaka) and businessman whose career began in 1966 when he opened a confectionery store in Osaka – then began selling cotton candy machines followed by gaming machines. His success in sales led him to start a gaming production company in 1974 called IPM Co., Ltd – four years later the wildly popular Space Invaders arcade game was released and IPM benefited greatly from the sales of this game.

Kenzo then founded Capcom Co., Ltd in 1979 in Osaka Japan – initially focusing on arcade machines but with the popularity of Nintendo gaming systems, soon changed their business strategy to produce games for Nintendo and developed Mega Man, Street Fighter and Resident Evil. Several years later Capcom Co., Ltd opened a subsidiary of the company in California’s Silicon Valley.

Kenzo has traveled the world and has enjoyed wine for many years. He visited the Napa Valley numerous times before acquiring this piece of property in the early 1990s. Capcom purchased the property in 1990 and then Kenzo purchased the site from his company when plans fell through to build an outdoor retreat. Prior to his ownership the land served as an equestrian center; in 1984 the Olympic US Polo team trained here. One of their vineyards is even referred to as the Polo Field Vineyard. The property was originally planted to vines in 1998 and the first vintage was released in 2005; from 2005 through 2008 the wines were made at another winery as Kenzo’s own winery was not yet built. The first vintage with 100% in house-production was in 2009. Our first visit to the winery was in 2010.

This is one of Napa Valley’s largest winery estate properties, but despite its size is still under the radar for most visitors to the valley. Kenzo Estate is located on 3,800 acres in the hills above Monticello Road (Highway 121) heading towards Lake Berryessa, which is only about a 20-minute drive from downtown Napa. The property is in the southern end of the Vaca mountain range on the southeastern side of the valley. There are no other wineries in the immediate region.

The winery is located at about 1500 feet in elevation; this part of Napa is far enough to the south so that is receives the moderating influences from the San Pablo Bay including afternoon breezes and cooler temperatures as compared to further north in the valley. As a result the growing season is usually a long one. Because of their location the vine growth is generally behind the valley floor; often advantageous especially if rains fall late in the season just prior to bloom.

Capcom Headquarters, Osaka Japan


With nearly 4,000 hillside acres only a small percentage of vines are planted on the property (150 acres) – only about 4% of the entire estate. Flat land is at a premium here – the terrain is mostly rolling hillsides with plenty of native vegetation. And approximately 35 acres of their vines are in Napa Valley’s most ‘obscure’ and least known sub appellation, Wild Horse Valley. Kenzo’s varieties in the Wild Horse Valley part of their property include Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. They do not list the name of the appellation on their wines as they blend in more than 85% of grapes from non Wild Horse Valley in their wines.

Wild Horse Valley is one of only two sub appellations in the Napa Valley along with Carneros to cross county lines; part of Wild Horse Valley AVA is in Solano County. This AVA presently is the only sub appellation in Napa Valley that does not house a physical winery. However it used to be the home of Heron Lake Winery until it burned down in the wildfires of 2017.

The entrance to the winery is located at the high point of Highway 121 just before the road drops down in elevation; enter through the gate and drive along a narrow road about 3/4 of a mile passing a small lake before reaching through a second gate (which opens automatically) before arriving at the small parking lot. From one part of the driveway, on a clear day from one part of the driveway, one can look east and see part of the Central Valley in the distance. From another part of the driveway one can look west and look down into part of Napa Valley. All visits are by prior appointment only.

Architect Howard Backen, (died 2024)) of the firm Backen & Gillam Architects is one of the most influential winery architects of his generation, having designed numerous premium winery properties within the Napa Valley including Kenzo Estate, Harlan Estate and Dana Estate. His work often blends in with the surrounding environment using earth tones and darker woods in his designs.

Kenzo-Estate-Napa-Valley (13) Two winery buildings are on site – one dedicated to red wines and the other exclusively for white wine. Due to the elevation and deep aquifers, wells had to be drilled down over 700 feet. A number of 150+ year old olive trees were brought onto the site and planted – they produce olives every other year and Kenzo Estate bottles a small amount of olive oil.

A 22,000 square foot cave is located in the hillside – with plans to expand this up to 68,000 square feet at a later date, which if completed would be the second largest wine cave in all of Napa Valley behind Palmaz. This cave was designed with the wine making team in mind and is extremely functional incorporating wide tunnels and extra square footage so barrels can line the walls without having to be stacked more than one on top of each other.

Kenzo employs both a dream team in the winery and in the vineyard; for approximately 20 years until 2022, Heidi Barrett was the winemaker (during her time at Kenzo Estate she often commuted here in her helicopter), and David Abreu is the vineyard architect and manager. Both are highly sought out in the valley for their various skills.

In October 2017 fires came through parts of the property and burned a fair amount of vegetation (easily seen along their driveway) and destroyed one large guesthouse. The fire burned almost to the winery but remarkably did not burn the winery; the surrounding vineyards certainly helped as a fire break.

The Kenzo Estate wines never stray to far in any direction; they are balanced, showcasing both California sunshine, but also a simultaneous restraint. They are built for the ‘now’ upon release, but have all of the characteristics to be able to age for many years. And as a result of their style, regardless of bottling, they are all meant to be enjoyed with food.

Select Wines
Reds
Rosé/Sparkling

Suzu is a Japanese word for bell.

The 2021 Kenzo Estate suzu Rosé (sparkling wine) is a blend of 54% Malbec, 37% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc; this wine was first aged for 11 months in 100% stainless steel and then was bottle aged on tirage for 22 months. It was made using Méthode Champenoise. It is medium to deep salmon in color; its red fruited aromatics are immediately noticeable with scents of raspberry, red cherry, rose petals, blood orange, white strawberries and a light note of dried herbs including thyme. As the wine opens, it offers a light note of white toast. This bottling offers both layers of flavor but also a pleasing accompanying freshness. This sparkling tastes like red fruits including raspberry, cherry and plum with a layer of orange zest. Finishes lively with a balanced and very bright character.

The name yui represents unity.

The 2024 yui Kenzo Estate Napa Valley Rosé is a blend of Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. This wine is pale copper in color; the nose smells elegant and layered with never a single aromatic dominating. It offers notes of dried rose petals, lychee, guava, raspberry, and pink grapefruit. A bit more citrusy on the palate than the bouquet, this wine tastes like grapefruit, pomelo, tangelo, raspberry, cranberry, pear, apple and not fully ripe watermelon. And a minerally character. The bouquet holds its aromatics as the wine opens and warms in the glass. The seamless interaction of flavor, acidity and texture makes this a very balanced wine. Tasting this while at Kenzo Estate, we immediately thought of pairing it with a variety of sushi or sashimi.

rindo
Rindo translates to a purple bellflower in Japanese; regardless of the vintage, it is blend of Bordeaux varieties with the percentages differing eachyear.

The 2021 Kenzo Estate rindo is a blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 11% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 4% Malbec. This wine is deep ruby and nearly opaque; the aromas are ripe but gentle and are a union of both fruit and barrel influences. It smells of dark plum, dark raspberry, boysenberry, blackberry, dark licorice and black cherry with appealing underlying layers of bakers chocolate, cocoa powder, old cedar wood and dried sage. Filled with layers of ripe darker fruits, this wine tastes like boysenberry, blackberry and Satsuma plum. And the palate finishes savory, with notes of toasted cedar, cracked peppercorn, dried herbs including sage and bay leaf, cinnamon stick, cloves and an earthy edge. The tannins are refined and rounded at nearly 5 years post vintage, lingering with a tumbled and subtle drying character. Drinking this reminds us of our time in Osaka, at a restaurant that specialized in Wagyu beef; this wine would be the perfect accompaniment to such a meal.

The 2019 Kenzo Estate rindo Napa Valley is deep ruby in color; the bouquet offers scents of bramble – primarily blackberry, dark cherry and prune accompanied by attractive non-fruit aromatics including tobacco spice, menthol, dark chocolate, dark pepper, Graham cracker, espresso and cinnamon stick. The palate is equally as ripe as the bouquet offering flavors of plum, blackberry, boysenberry jam and dark raspberry. In terms of texture, the tannins are gravelly and exert a light grip across the palate. Lingers dark and savory with notes of spicy plum skin, crushed pepper, smoked sage and green tea leaf. This wine would pair nicely with BBQ lamb or grilled duck – either of which, covered with a spicy and herb filled dry rub.

The 2016 Kenzo Estate rindo is an expression of the estate’s terroir, a red Bordeaux-style blend, led by Cabernet Sauvignon and supported by Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The bouquet is generous and highly aromatic, offering a vibrant core of raspberry and red currant, intertwined with the scent of dried rose petals and a subtle, savory hint of mountain sage. As the wine sits in the glass, it reveals additional secondary characteristics, including nuances of mocha, dark espresso, and smooth milk chocolate. On the palate, this vintage is extremely approachable in its youth, making it a definitive crowd-pleaser; it features a tannin profile that is exceptionally soft and well-integrated, allowing the flavors to linger delicately on a seamless and refined finish.

murasaki
Murasaki takes its name from the Japanese word for “purple”—a color historically associated with nobility and refinement

The 2021 Kenzo Estate murasaki is a blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. This wine is deep ruby and nearly opaque; distinctive, the bouquet offers both a sweet fruited barrel and fruit perception. These aromatics include raspberry jam, Santa Rosa plum, cardamom, cinnamon, licorice, and white pepper. This wine offers layers of flavor but in a balanced and elegant way. It favors more red fruits than dark, including of raspberry, cherry, plum and blackberry. At 5 years post vintage, the tannins are already integrated nicely. The finish lingers with both spice and texture, including pepper, dried bay leaf, a minerally/dusty layer and gravelly textured tannins. We would love to pair this wine with a Japanese pan-roasted duck breast (Kamo ro-su).

The 2006 Kenzo Estate murasaki is designed for greater intensity and longevity than its sibling, the Rindo. To achieve its signature depth, the Murasaki undergoes a more rigorous aging regime, seeing a higher percentage of new French oak and spending more time in barrel before bottling. The bouquet reveals elegant notes of fine mocha powder and cocoa nibs, which are seamlessly integrated with a core of concentrated darker fruits like black plum and brambleberry. On the palate, the 2006 vintage showcases a beautiful balance including its acidity; it possesses a “big” and authoritative structure, yet it never feels overbearing or heavy. The depth of flavor is pronounced, leading to a finish where those elegant mocha notes reappear, anchored by polished tannins that are already softened in its youth.

asuka
Aska is a small town near Osaka and is Kenzo’s hometown.

The 2021 Kenzo Estate asuka is 100% varietal Cabernet Franc is medium to deep ruby in color; the bouquet offers both red fruits and a freshness. This wine smells like red cherry, red plum, dark currant, violets, sage, lavender and a light note of pepper and petrichor. Ripe but also lively across the palate, this wine delivers plenty of vitality. Its flavors include Satsuma plum, blackberry, boysenberry, Icelandic crowberries (look that fruit up if you are not familiar with it) and not fully ripe blueberry. And it lingers with a light layer of cinnamon stick and both dark spice and herbal (but not green) layers of pink peppercorn, dried sage, dust and not fully dried tobacco leaf. The tannins are integrated nicely at this age, 5 years post vintage, persisting with a tumbled and lightly dusty character, felt primarily on the front of the palate. Age worthy. We would love to pair this with a lighter cut of meat, perhaps a tenderloin.

ai
Ai is named after the Japanese art of creating indigo dye.

The 2021 Kenzo Estate ai is 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. This wine is deep ruby and opaque; it takes some time for its aromatics to be coaxed and out fully express themselves. There is a beautiful core of fruit at play here, a combination of blackberry, dark cherry, boysenberry and dark mulberry with accompanying notes of Hoisin sauce, pipe tobacco, pencil shavings and a light note of vanilla. Be patient with this wine in particular; you will be rewarded. The palate harbors a savory edge, especially noticeable on the finish. These attributes include some herbal notes of dried sage and dried bay leaf, accompanied by cracked dark peppercorn and a woodsy note of smoked cedar. Finishes spicy. The tannins are broadly coating and persistent with a gravelly and lightly grainy texture, felt more on the front of the palate than the back. Of all the Kenzo Estate bottlings we have tried, this is clearly a wine that can pair well with a well marbled cut of steak and a BBQ.


The 2006 Kenzo Estate ai is appropriately named as this wine is deep ruby and opaque. This is Kenzo’s “show wine”, their boldest wine in the portfolio, a wine meant for aging. It is a robust wine, with plenty of layers, flavors and structure. The bouquet initially shows an herbal note including of jalapeno, dustiness, a hint of cigar smoke and blackberry. Somewhat savory in its aromatic presentation. This bottling offers both red and darker fruits on the palate including a finish with flavors of red cherry and currant. Long lasting tannins maintain a tight grip on the finish. A very age worthy wine. We enjoyed this wine both right after its release and then again 10 years later.

Whites
Asatsuyu means “morning dew” in Japanese.

The 2008 Kenzo Estate asatsuyu Sauvignon Blanc shows more citrus notes rather than tropical characteristics on the bouquet – although a passion fruit nuance is revealed as the wine continues to breathe. The palate offers flavors of grapefruit and lime along with some intriguing mineralities. Sometimes this variety with its citrus like flavors and higher acid can be too tart or “green” on its own but this wine doesn’t have those characteristics. The texture is rounded and supple across the palate. The wine did not go through any secondary (malolactic) fermentation.

Muku is a Japanese word representing purity and innocence.

The 2018 Kenzo Estate muku is a late harvest Sauvignon Blanc; straw color in the glass offers bright, ripe and sweet fruit aromas including honeysuckle, pear, red apple and pineapple guava. Sweet, with an ethereal texture across the palate, this wine is packed with flavor including mandarin, apricot and ripe peach. A freshness of acidity shows, especially on the finish – not tart but bright and lively, dancing across the palate. Good acidity is important in wines such as this – otherwise they would just be linearly focused on sweetness. Available as a 375ml in an appealing lithe shaped bottle.


—

Several Napa Valley based wineries or producers will pair food with their wines but it’s rare to find a partnership like the one Kenzo has with famed chef, Thomas Keller. Kenzo has partnered with Keller (French Laundry, Bouchon, Ad Hoc etc.) to offer a Bouchon prepared lunch and small plates including sandwiches, salads, charcuteries and other tasty items paired with select Kenzo Estate wines. This experience is one of the highlights of visiting the estate. Tasting menus are written in both English and Japanese.

Total production each year is usually between 20,000 and 25,000 cases with about 80% of their wines shipped directly to Japan. Locally their wines are available at the French Laundry in Yountville and at select other premium restaurants. And unlike many wineries, Kenzo Estate bottles a certain percentage of their wines in 375ML or half bottles.

For more information and or to join their wine club, visit: www.kenzoestate.com or the Japanese version: www.kenzoestate.jp/

PHOTOGRAPHY
Kenzo Estate Winery



Hospitality


Cave


Vineyards



Kenzo Restaurant, Napa
In late 2016, Kenzo opened Kenzo Restaurant, Napa in downtown Napa located in a space formerly occupied by Pearl Restaurant. This is arguably one of the Napa Valley’s finer restaurants and certainly tops the list of the few Asian restaurants in the valley. Their wine list includes as expected, the full lineup of current-release wines from Kenzo Estate and select wines from mostly other Napa Valley based producers.

Despite being located in downtown Napa, Kenzo Restaurant maintains an under the radar presence. This is partly due to their limited signage and also the fact they are not located directly on any of the city’s busiest streets (IE First or Main Street). Astute observers of Kenzo Restaurant’s day to day operations will notice they never display their exterior sign during the day but always display it in a permanent holder during their open hours for dinner.

The restaurant was awarded a coveted Michelin star in 2017 and has also received the Wine Spectator Restaurant Award of Excellence several years running.

The restaurant seats only 28 people – organized among 10 tables and the 10-seat sushi bar but with plenty of space left between diners at the bar so it never feels crowded. The interior was designed by Kenzo’s wife Natsuko. While the five Kenzo properties in Japan have more of a masculine interior feel, Kenzo Napa is more feminine in its interior approach, both elegant yet simplistic at the same time.

Once reservations are made, Kenzo Restaurant will email a sample menu several days before the reservation. Allow 2.5 to 3 hours for dinner. The meal is Kaiseki style – a multi-course traditional Japanese cuisine. The menu changes seasonally – the focus of the cuisine is on an intriguing array of flavors, textures and visually appealing presentations. While chef can prepare a variety of sushi the cuisine is exceptionally diverse. Fresh fish is flown in daily from the Toyosu Market in Tokyo (formerly Tsukiji market). Select seasonal fresh ingredients are also sourced from Kenzo Estate Winery – including spring water used in several of the dishes.




Several memorable dishes during our visit included the Sanriku Bonito Tataki, select sushi and arguably their most impressive dish (and the one that nearby patrons were obviously experiencing a heightened enjoyment from), the Satsuma Wagyu Tenderloin Kuwayaki. The pace of the meal is choreographed well – and when each course is delivered, the server takes time to explain the food. Those sitting at the bar will have an intimate view of the sushi preparation and are welcome to chat with the sushi chef.

JAPAN SPACES
Kenzo Estate maintains five wine bars/restaurants in Japan, three of which are in Tokyo and one each in Kyoto and Osaka. Often it is hard to combine both a tasting room with culinary excellence, but Kenzo Estate has successfully done this across all their Japan based properties. The focus of the cuisine is a mixture of culinary influence from both Japan and France.

At least some of the staff in all of the locations speak some English and during our visits of all 5 locations, we met at least one person in each tasting room who had been to Napa Valley including of course, a visit to Kenzo Estate.

Kenzo Estate Winery Roppongi Hills, Tokyo
This wine bar and a sit-down restaurant is located in the upscale Roppongi Hills part of Tokyo (nearby neighbors include Rolex and Louis Vutton). Kenzo Estate Winery is only about a 7-minute walk from the nearest metro stop, the Hibiya line at Roppongi Hills. On the way here one passes numerous shops, a cinema and the Mori Tower, housing the Mori Art Museum and the Tokyo City View observation deck located on the 52nd floor.

Located on two floors – the first floor contains a small wine shop, counter dining and wine tasting options and the second floor houses the small restaurant (15 tables including a private room which can be reserved ahead of time). An impressive menu features a number of creatively designed dishes including numerous fish selections. From the counter, food can be ordered a la carte or from a fixed price menu.

The style of the Kenzo wines are testament to how well they pair with this type of cuisine. Wines can be ordered by the glass (various sized pours), half bottle or full bottle.

exterior





wine bar/shop/counter dining



restaurant



Kenzo Estate Winery, Ginza Tokyo
This Kenzo Estate location is only a several minute walk from the Ginza metro stop – this is a very busy part of Tokyo with numerous luxury brands and restaurants located in or around the main street (Ginza). This is one of the most coveted retail sites within Tokyo.

This Kenzo location contains two separate lounges – the earlier opening one, 1F Lounge “Ai” which features a long table for both tastings and meals along with a small adjoining wine shop and the B1F Lounge “Murasaki”, which opens later in the afternoon.

A full selection of Kenzo’s wines are available for tastings. Outside of the dinner hours, small bites can be ordered to pair with the wines. The dinner menu is extensive and can be enjoyed in either of the lounges. An a la carte menu is available with seasonal offerings as well as more substantial plates.

Like at all of their Japan locations, a screen rotates images showing the history of Kenzo Estate Winery in the Napa Valley as well as select events.

Kenzo Estate Winery, Ginza Tokyo
exterior



interior



Kenzo Estate Winery, Hiroo Tokyo
This is the oldest of the Kenzo Estate locations within Japan. Located about 10 minutes from the Hiro-o metro stop in a ‘quieter’ section of Tokyo as compared to the other two locations. Located on the first floor of a three-story building – next to much taller buildings.

An extensive menu that changes seasonally is offered for dinner – like at their other locations a full selection of Kenzo Estate wines are available for tasting. Guests can sit at the counter, tables or reserve the private room ahead of time.

Unfortunately, this location was undergoing a major interior remodel during our visit and while we were able to walk inside briefly, the interior was in not in any shape to be photographed.

We will revisit during one of our next trips to Tokyo and update our notes.

Kenzo Estate Winery, Hiroo Tokyo



Kenzo Estate Winery, Gion Kyoto
Gion is a charming section of Kyoto with numerous Japanese style houses including tea houses, restaurants, bars and assorted clubs. Easily accessible from Kyoto’s major east west connector, Shijō Street – walking in Gion feels worlds away from the commercial shopping centers and stores that line both sides of Shijō Street.

Historically famous in Japan for its geishas, Gion was the location in the novel, Memoirs of a Geisha. Also, the pretty Shirakawa River runs through the district as well as being bordered by the much larger Kamo River (a popular place in the spring and summer for pedestrians). Of the select cities in Japan that we have visited over the years, Kyoto is by far our favorite.

Like the other Kenzo Estate locations, Kenzo Estate Winery Gion is located very close to the metro – only about a 3–5-minute walk from the closest stop, Gion-Shijō. Features one primary room on the first floor with a tasting bar – with small bites served before 5pm and a la carte or larger dishes served after 5pm. Our recommendation: the Kobe Beef Carpaccio paired with the Muku dessert wine.

A private room located upstairs can be reserved by appointment. A very tiny wine shop is located near the entrance.

exterior



interior



Kenzo Estate Winery, Osaka
Located in a very busy part of Osaka surrounded by tall high rises, this Kenzo tasting room and restaurant is located only a several minute walk from the closest metro station, Nishi-Umeda. This was the second Kenzo Estate property established in Japan – it is located only about a 30-minute walk from the Capcom headquarters (a nice walk if you have never been to Osaka before).

This location is one floor – with a long tasting counter greeting visitors at the entrance and a private dining space tucked away in the back with several tables. Delicious food – highly recommended is their Caesar salad (probably the best Caesar salad we have ever had) and validated by a representative from the Society of Wine Educators Japan Chapter who happened to be sitting at the bar at the same time as our visit. Also intriguing, is the Chef’s Selection for dessert (varies seasonally).

exterior



interior




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